Monday, February 24, 2014

Tiputini Biodiversity Station

A few weeks ago I went to the Tiputini Biodiversity Station down in the Amazonia lowlands of Ecuador. This is the most biodiverse area on the planet and a true marvel. Actually, the amazing thing about visiting the Amazon is not so much what you see but what you don't. Unless you are with a guide, you won't see hardly anything. Go with a guide, or spend lots of time there, and you will start to see things. I am not good yet, but getting better. On this trip I saw 5 species of monkeys, peccary, lots of frogs and birds, and of course, lots of trees! I was there 5 days but the first and last days were travel days. To get to Tiputini you start with a 30min flight from Quito to Coca. Then you take a taxi to the banks of the Napo river. This river is one of 8 that become the Amazon and the elevation here is about 250m. Then you motor boat downstream for 2 hours to Pompeya. Here you go through a military control that is run by the oil companies and then board a bus. The bus ride is another 2 hours on the Maxxis road, also made by the oil companies. Needless to say, oil companies make some nice gravel roads! The road has also allowed lots of settlers to move in so while it looks like 'jungle' there is a lot of clearing and farming going on. When the road crosses the Tiputini river you get on a motorized canoe for a 2 hour ride to the station. Long day! 

My purpose of going to Tiputini was to work with my colleague Brant Ryder on wire-tailed manakins. He has been studying them for about a decade and I joined in a couple of years ago. We have published a couple of papers on their hormones and social networks and just recently found out that our National Science Foundation grant to continue these studies will be funded. So now we have to get to work! So we spent a few days visiting the territories, marking birds, making sure everyone is where they should be and behaving as they should. It was good fun! And every night I went on night hikes to see what was around. Most of these pics come from those hikes. 

The scariest moment of my trip was nearly getting bit by a fer-de-lance, Bothrops asper. I was walking down the trail behind Brandt and it was raining. A tree had fallen across the trial and we had to climb over the branches and trunk. As I was climbing, my foot slipped and I put my hand on the trunk to steady myself…. but as I was putting my hand down I looked where it would land and there was the snake. I'm not sure if my hand actually touched the snake or right next to it as I jerked it back instantaneously. Luckily, no bite! I did have to take a break after that as my heart was racing pretty fast. I guess that is the reality of working in the jungle!

At night the jungle is alive with frogs. Here are a few beauties!

And sleeping anoles!

These guys were everywhere.

Nice phyla medusa we found .


And a little Dipsas snake. These guys eat snails!

And the star of the show, the male wire-tailed manakin!

We had a good meeting! These guys are beautiful but actually finding them in the forest is remarkably hard until you learn what to look for.

Another nice frog.

On the boat ride out, opposite of the trip in, we got to see a herd of capybara on the banks of the river. We also saw a pink river dolphin. Cool BUT, a few weeks before a group saw a jaguar…. jealous.

There was a tree fall into the river and the crew started picking fruit and called it chicle.

Quite tasty, like bubblegum. And full of latex which makes a bit of a mess.

And a couple of river turtles on a log.

Sunday, February 9, 2014

Papallacta

A couple of weekends ago we went to Papallacta for a three day weekend. We stayed in a cabin at Termas for Friday and Saturday nights. Since I am good friends with the people at Termas they found us an extra cabin (I think it is for family and friends of the business) even though they were fully booked and even gave us day passes to visit the spa (only the pools, no massages or anything). It was fun to be back there and to take the kids. As I have lived about a year there (in 4-6 week increments), I know the place pretty well.

It is the dry season there so we got lots of good views of the Volcan Antisana. During the rainy season you might get a glimpse once a week, but we saw it pretty much the whole time. It's a BIG mountain!

Immediately upon arrival we went to the Exploratorio where my friend Patricio works and then for a hike. Patricio has worked there since I first went there in 2000 and he is a good guy. He has been very helpful through the years and it was great to see him again. Here we are about 1/3 of a mile up the trail. The start is at 11,000ft so walking isn't easy!

Although the kids seemed to do fine!

Even Camilo was so entertained that he was happy to hike around.

Notice the velvety water of the stream.

We must have dozens of pics of the mountain and here is one of Amalia posing in front of it.

And even a family pic! Although the mountain is kind of washed out.

Here is a better one.

Here is the hot spring in front of our cabin. The kids thought the temperature was perfect after Camilo did the finger test.

On Saturday we went up the road to above 14,000 feet and into the Cayambe-Coca reserve. From there we had an even better view of the Antisana.

At the high elevation there are numerous lagoons in the Paramo grasslands, roughly akin to tundra.

Even in the Paramo, Camilo wants to play in the dirt.

Here is a deer we stumbled upon. White-tailed believe it or not.

Perfect day for a hike in the Paramo.

Amalia agrees.

That evening we went for a walk before dinner and heard some frogs calling. After dinner Lisa went out and found one. This is a Gastrotheca riobombae, a marsupial frog.

Amalia had some fun photographing it the next morning.

Then we went on another hike and found the llama heard. The kids had been searching for them so it was fun to find them. They aren't tame but they are domesticated.

Camilo with his flowers.

Amalia with hers.